I’ve been traveling nonstop on various productions for the past few weeks, but even at my busiest moment mid-shoot, I still caught wind of what went down in the climbing world last week. Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold made the first-ever traverse of the Fitz Roy massif in Patagonia over the course of a five-day push.
This is one of the most impressive bits of news I’ve ever received, but I can’t say I’m all that surprised. I’ve known Tommy and Alex for a long time, and neither need an introduction. They’re two of the best climbers of all time, and each climber has revolutionized the disciplines of big-wall free climbing (Tommy) and big-wall free soloing (Alex). Whenever they team up, it seems that great, big, mind-blowing things happen.
For example, a few years ago, Tommy and Alex roped up for the free “Triple”—in which they free climbed El Cap, Half Dome and Mt. Watkins in under 24 hours. This amounts to nearly a vertical mile of rock climbing, with difficulties up to 5.13a—not to mention descents and approaches between all the monoliths.
The Fitz Roy massif is one of the most impressive mountain skylines in the world. For years, a traverse of all the peaks —Aguja Guillaumet, Aguja Mermoz, Cerro Fitz Roy, Aguja Poincenot, Aguja Rafael Juárez, Aguja Saint-Exúpery and Aguja de l’S—had been entertained by visionary climbers. But no one ever thought it would actually be accomplished.
Over five days, Tommy and Alex traversed 3 miles of jagged ridge line, with 12,000 feet of vertical gain, and technical difficulties up to 5.11+. They simul-climbed most of it in approach shoes, an interesting tactic considering most of the ridge was covered in snow and ice. It shows what ultimate confidence and total trust these two climbers had in each other. To me, they really embody what makes the spirit of mountaineering and climbing so great.
What’s always most amazing to me is how nonchalant and humble these world-class athletes are about their accomplishments. It was Alex’s first climb in Patagonia, and he and Tommy sort of joked about the traverse, downplaying it as nothing more than a bit of “extreme backpacking.”
And you know what? For them, I wouldn’t be surprised if it felt that way. Thanks, guys, for the continued inspiration!
Check out this interview with Alex on National Geographic Adventure.
1 comment
Good grief. Just catching wind of this. That is absolutely ridic!
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