Over the last three years, I’ve been very fortunate to have worked with David Lama on behalf of Red Bull, witnessing history unfold. I’ve watched firsthand as he has attempted to free climb Cerro Torre. After the struggles and difficult conditions during year one and a brief hiatus during year two, this third year of the project could not have come together any better. A perfect weather window and four strong climbers made for a monumental season.
As I was en route to meet up with David and his climbing partner Peter Ortner in El Chalten, things started to get really interesting. I got word that my good friend Hayden Kennedy and his partner Jason Kruk had just completed the first “fair means” ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre. Though, the bigger news surrounding this team is what came next. During their descent, Kennedy and Kruk chopped nearly a quarter of the bolts that made up the infamous bolt ladder on the route. While this made for some spirited conversation throughout the climbing world, it also added to the amazement of what was to come. Three days later, David Lama and Peter Ortner made the first free ascent of the route. It was such a fun experience to help record climbing history. At the core, this is what I love doing the most.
It has been a blast to get to know David over the years and I look forward to watching his trajectory from here. I’m certain we’re going to see more great climbs from him in the future. As with every project, this could not have been possible without a great crew. Many thanks to Florain Klinger and Guide Kruetschnigg at Red Bull, Director Thomy Dirnhofer, heli pilots Ken Robinson & Pablo Stornini and great friend & fellow camera operator Lincoln Else (who, much to my jealousy, climbed Cerro Torre ahead of the team to capture David’s summit). Also, many thanks to all of the friends I’ve made in Argentina over the years. Chalten is a place that I figured I’d go once and never return, yet it has become a big part of my life.
Visit Outside Online for the full story and some of my photos, along with images from Lincoln Else and Mikey Schaeffer.
